Growing Tips - Bromeliads as Epiphytes
Bromeliads grown on trees as epiphytes, offer endless windows of creativity.
Mounting plants on trees and other objects is quite easy & creates Stairway decoration elements to your garden ideal for both large gardens and those with limited space.
In larger gardens mounted plants can create extra dimensions creating added interest by drawing attention to previously unnoticed aspects of the garden and in smaller gardens alike can utilize valuable space creating the illusion of a large area.
A common misconception regarding mounted Bromeliads is that many people think that the only Tillandsias smaller types of Bromeliads are suitable for growing this way, when in fact almost any Bromeliad other than terrestrial types [ground dwellers] can be successfully mounted.
Even most of the very large Neoregelia can be quite easily, successfully mounted with a little care. In fact they look simply stunning grown this way, providing a few of their basic needs are met.
In most cases, mounting plants can be carried out any time of year but quicker results will be achieved if done during the warmer months when the plant and roots are actively growing.
One of the most important things to remember when growing plants this way is that during the warmer months your plants will tend to dry out a lot quicker than potted plants so adequate moisture needs to be available especially when initially establishing your new plants.
Another important factor is to provide adequate light and nutrition.
Fertilizer for young plants, especially larger growing Neoregelia, is a lot easier to deliver to a potted plant than a mounted plant.
This can be taken care of by spraying with liquid fertilizer + or placing 1/3 to [1 for large growers] teaspoon of slow release fertilizer [9-12 month] rolled up in plenty of sphagnum moss into a tight ball and placing on the root zone firmly between the tree and the plant after mounting your plant.
Although some plants may grow without this added feeding, other plants will only just survive and will mostly be stunted and vulnerable to fungal infection etc... If you want your plant to really thrive, light feeding can be very beneficial for a faster growing larger stronger plant.
This is especially helpful for mounting larger Neoregelia and Aechmea Hybrids where feeding this way will encourage the roots to grab more quickly as well as produce a large strong plant.
This is especially helpful for mounting larger Neoregelia and Aechmea Hybrids where feeding this way will encourage the roots to grab more quickly as well as produce a large strong plant.
Larger Neoregelia in particular once well established on your tree, should not need any further feeding unless absolutely necessary, as this can cause loss of color later on.
Once your pups arrive light spraying can recommence in the pup area. A good liquid fertilizer used for Orchids I find ideal mixed at the recommended rate.
Personally, I avoid fish type of liquid fertilizer as some contain high level of salt which can build up residue on the foliage.
'No Fuss Spraying'
Is very handy to Keep a small cheap hand sprayer nearby, filled with fertilizer. This really simplifies the task, so even if your plant is high up you can use the 'jet' setting to give it a regular squirt.
The center of the plants should be flushed out with just water regularly to avoid build up of dried nutrients.
Totally worth the effort as you can just see them grow.
To Tie on Your Plant
Plants can easily be attached using panty hose or similar material which can be removed once the roots are established. Wire should be avoided as this can later ring bark your tree, if around the branch and kill the branch.Once your pups arrive light spraying can recommence in the pup area. A good liquid fertilizer used for Orchids I find ideal mixed at the recommended rate.
Personally, I avoid fish type of liquid fertilizer as some contain high level of salt which can build up residue on the foliage.
'No Fuss Spraying'
Is very handy to Keep a small cheap hand sprayer nearby, filled with fertilizer. This really simplifies the task, so even if your plant is high up you can use the 'jet' setting to give it a regular squirt.
The center of the plants should be flushed out with just water regularly to avoid build up of dried nutrients.
Totally worth the effort as you can just see them grow.
To Tie on Your Plant
For Larger Neoregelia especially good & more attractive is stretch cotton, similar to t-shirt material. A small strip can be quite cheaply purchased from a material shop. You can choose good camouflage or matching colors for the job and cut into suitable strips to suit the size of the plant. Ensure your strips are wide enough to hold in plenty of sphagnum moss + [optional] chunks of charcoal.
Ideally, this material tends to gradually rot once the plant has struck and be just left on.This of course can also be hidden with some nice Old mans beard, as shown in photos, air plants extra sphagnum strands & smaller Bromeliads.
Once roots are established your new plants will happily be on their way to their wonderful color journey.
About mounting on Palm trees scroll down, below;
PHOTOS COMING HERE SOON.
Some Ideal Plants to use as Epiphytes
Aechmea Naudicaulis - All types
Aechmea Gamesepala Match sticks
Aechmea Recurvata - All types
Aechmea Rajah
Aechmea Orlandiana - all types.
Aechmea Bert
Aechmea Rainbow [Bert]
Aechmea correia-araujoi - grows sideways + down in a zig zag pattern.
+more.
Billbergia Pyramidalis All types
Billbergia Pyramidalis Kyoto - offsets *Will climb with encouragement
+ more.
Neoregelia Rosy Morn - very large showy
Neoregelia Concentrica various forms
Neoregelia Takamura ,, ,,
Neoregelia Spectabilis 2 forms [very hardy]
Neoregelia most varieties - providing adequate moisture available [or misting].
Neoregelia Good climbers with long stolons.
Camorimiana 30cm
Compacta 30-40cm
Compacta Dark form 30-40cm
Red Speck albomarginata 30-40cm
Strawberry Ice - ,, 45-55cm
Glory 30cm
+ more.
*Stolons = *New Plants develop on the end of a long stem 20-30cm long. Roots form on the base of this new offset and cling to the nearest object + climb.
******************Happy Growing******************
I mount these 2 ways ;
1/- At the base; It is a good idea for some of the larger ones- is to just put a bit of mulch at the base then once rooted- up + away they go.
Various types of Bromeliads + Neoregelia are very good as they don't worry about root competition in fact they seem to like the situation and feed off it.
Often I use a mix of mushroom compost when available + pine bark to lighten it up- but even a stack of leaf mulch will do + a touch of 9-12 month, Nutricote high potash, Osmocote for Roses, or you could use my own special 'BR Custom High Potash Bromeliad Fertilizer Prills' added.
-Once settled- off they go.
2/ You can also tie them up the trunk at various highs adds good interest and is often more ideal better for some of the smaller types and Large types- a bit of long strand sphagnum moss with a pinch of Osmocote for a good kick start. You may initially loose a tad of color but not for long- gives them a faster grab, so they get going.
They also go well in a small wire basket bent to fit tree or *nail* on a pot or small chunk of bark filled with sphagnum to help hold them temporarily.
*For many trees I wouldn't recommend using nails, however with palm trees- it is fine as they are made up inside with fibers like a bunch of drinking straws so the rest of the tree or bark is not detrimentally effected by the scarred area in any way.
Happy growing Deb
